The ethics of sushi


Andrew O’Hehir reviews a new documentary on sushi consumption around the globe:

In addition to interviewing Japanese fishermen, fish traders and high-end sushi chefs upholding a centuries-old tradition, [filmmaker Mark S. Hall] travels to a football game in suburban Texas and the Polish city of Lodz to demonstrate the global explosion of what was once (at least outside Tokyo) an eccentric and/or ethnic specialty cuisine. We learn about the stroke of entrepreneurial evil genius that is Sushi Popper, pre-sliced sushi rolls served in a Pringles-type can with a push-up apparatus. (The cucumber roll looks great, but the so-called California Roll contains a panoply of truly frightening ingredients.)

The documentary extensively covers sushi sustainability issues and the depressing fact that bluefin tuna populations “are believed to have fallen by 60 to 80 percent, with no end in sight.”